Hi all, in the past I have simply played with fake money on things such as Zynga Poker and Pokerstars and wondered if the stratergy to cash games is any different or if I should approach the game in a different way?
Well firstly, the game is likely to play very differently because people care alot more when it's really money on the table and not 'play chips'... although that's questionable of some of players who play 2p/4p.
The best thing I can suggest is to stick to strong hands, and everytime you wanna play a hand, always raise if no-one already has done so (don't limp!).
I'd be playing any pocket pairs from 22 - AA, AK, AQ, AJ, A10, KQ, KJ. The pocket pairs from 22 to about 88/99, I'd be playing with the sole intention of flopping a set (3 of a kind), if you don't do this, it's best to just give up on the pot.
If you stick to these strong starting hands, when you hit cards on the flop, you'll generally have the best hand, and when you don't hit the flop, you can just fold. If your hand is good bet, if it's not fold. Don't bother trying to bluff at low levels.
All this is very general but should certainly get you started in the right direction.
Well firstly, the game is likely to play very differently because people care alot more when it's really money on the table and not 'play chips'... although that's questionable of some of players who play 2p/4p. The best thing I can suggest is to stick to strong hands, and everytime you wanna play a hand, always raise if no-one already has done so (don't limp!). I'd be playing any pocket pairs from 22 - AA, AK, AQ, AJ, A10, KQ, KJ. The pocket pairs from 22 to about 88/99, I'd be playing with the sole intention of flopping a set (3 of a kind), if you don't do this, it's best to just give up on the pot. If you stick to these strong starting hands, when you hit cards on the flop, you'll generally have the best hand, and when you don't hit the flop, you can just fold. If your hand is good bet, if it's not fold. Don't bother trying to bluff at low levels. All this is very general but should certainly get you started in the right direction. Posted by Lambert180
Very good advice! Would you use this advice for MTTS as well, or how would you change it? You do not mention anything about position! Is this important in cash games. The reason I ask is that I have not yet got hooked to cash games, I find it very tedious! You can play for hours and not make any money!
In Response to Re: New to cash games : Very good advice! Would you use this advice for MTTS as well, or how would you change it? You do not mention anything about position! Is this important in cash games. The reason I ask is that I have not yet got hooked to cash games, I find it very tedious! You can play for hours and not make any money! Posted by wynne1938
I'd say position is important in all formats of poker, and being IP will always make things easier, but the fact you're only playing very strong hands, and only continuing when you flop well should negate some (not all) of the disadvantages of being OOP.
In MTTs I probably play similar to what I said above, but I include some hands like suited connectors from about 56s upwards. The reason I don't play them at 4NL is because...
A) They won't flop well often enough
You don't need to balance your range cos no-one at micro stakes pays attention to what you do anyway. THey just look at their own cards.
C) If you stick to the hands I mentioned above, that's around 20% of hands, which means you'll be playing 1 hand per orbit (on average) and if you're multi-tabling, that means you'll be playing maybe 2-3 hands every minute or so, so no point introducing weaker hands.
D) You're just looking to flop TPTK, nut straights, nut flushes, top trips, sets etc, and you don't need to worry about disguising the fact you've hit the flop with 78s.
That's how I'd play very early on in an MTT. Obviously in MTTs as the tourney progresses it becomes more important to steal blinds etc where position is vital. However on cash tables, stealing blinds is NEVER going to be your aim.
You can play cash for ages and not make any money, but then you can play a tourney for 2 hours, bubble and lose money
In Response to Re: New to cash games : I'd say position is important in all formats of poker, and being IP will always make things easier, but the fact you're only playing very strong hands, and only continuing when you flop well should negate some (not all) of the disadvantages of being OOP. In MTTs I probably play similar to what I said above, but I include some hands like suited connectors from about 56s upwards. The reason I don't play them at 4NL is because... A) They won't flop well often enough You don't need to balance your range cos no-one at micro stakes pays attention to what you do anyway. THey just look at their own cards. C) If you stick to the hands I mentioned above, that's around 20% of hands, which means you'll be playing 1 hand per orbit (on average) and if you're multi-tabling, that means you'll be playing maybe 2-3 hands every minute or so, so no point introducing weaker hands. D) You're just looking to flop TPTK, nut straights, nut flushes, top trips, sets etc, and you don't need to worry about disguising the fact you've hit the flop with 78s. That's how I'd play very early on in an MTT. Obviously in MTTs as the tourney progresses it becomes more important to steal blinds etc where position is vital. However on cash tables, stealing blinds is NEVER going to be your aim. You can play cash for ages and not make any money, but then you can play a tourney for 2 hours, bubble and lose money Posted by Lambert180
Nice reply! In what circumstances would you play any 2 cards?
In Response to Re: New to cash games : Nice reply! In what circumstances would you play any 2 cards? Posted by wynne1938
Yeah Harding covered it lol... in micro cash, never!
The only time I'd really even consider playing any two cards are towards the sharp end of tournaments and even then it depends on how I'm doing. If I'm really short stacked (like 5-6BB) then I would shove any two from the button 100% if it's been folded to me. Comes in handy when you do that and you happen to have AA tho
Comments
The best thing I can suggest is to stick to strong hands, and everytime you wanna play a hand, always raise if no-one already has done so (don't limp!).
I'd be playing any pocket pairs from 22 - AA, AK, AQ, AJ, A10, KQ, KJ. The pocket pairs from 22 to about 88/99, I'd be playing with the sole intention of flopping a set (3 of a kind), if you don't do this, it's best to just give up on the pot.
If you stick to these strong starting hands, when you hit cards on the flop, you'll generally have the best hand, and when you don't hit the flop, you can just fold. If your hand is good bet, if it's not fold. Don't bother trying to bluff at low levels.
All this is very general but should certainly get you started in the right direction.
Would you use this advice for MTTS as well, or how would you change it?
You do not mention anything about position!
Is this important in cash games.
The reason I ask is that I have not yet got hooked to cash games, I find it very tedious!
You can play for hours and not make any money!
In MTTs I probably play similar to what I said above, but I include some hands like suited connectors from about 56s upwards. The reason I don't play them at 4NL is because...
A) They won't flop well often enough
C) If you stick to the hands I mentioned above, that's around 20% of hands, which means you'll be playing 1 hand per orbit (on average) and if you're multi-tabling, that means you'll be playing maybe 2-3 hands every minute or so, so no point introducing weaker hands.
D) You're just looking to flop TPTK, nut straights, nut flushes, top trips, sets etc, and you don't need to worry about disguising the fact you've hit the flop with 78s.
That's how I'd play very early on in an MTT. Obviously in MTTs as the tourney progresses it becomes more important to steal blinds etc where position is vital. However on cash tables, stealing blinds is NEVER going to be your aim.
You can play cash for ages and not make any money, but then you can play a tourney for 2 hours, bubble and lose money
In what circumstances would you play any 2 cards?
The only time I'd really even consider playing any two cards are towards the sharp end of tournaments and even then it depends on how I'm doing. If I'm really short stacked (like 5-6BB) then I would shove any two from the button 100% if it's been folded to me. Comes in handy when you do that and you happen to have AA tho
Very well done and best of luck in future.